Saturday, January 29, 2022

DSquared2 Designers welcome the fashion crowd to Milan. Nation World News

MILAN ( Associated Press) — Dean and Dan Catton warmly welcomed guests including Swedish striker Zlatan Ibrahimovic, gathering on Friday for the Canadian designing twins’ first live show in two years, as Milan Fashion Week begins with a glimmer of optimism. Happened together An Omicron-winding calendar.

“There’s a big deal in this room,” he told the crowd before the show for his DSquared2 label. “Thank you for supporting us in our decision to be here and to do a physical show. For us, it’s a step forward.”

“It’s been two long years, and it’s great to be back,” the twins said before unveiling a colorful and comfy Canadian mash-up puffer coat, quilted shorts over jeans, layered with delicate fleece blankets. Done – Coming back to the mix of open air for bus tickets and away from the growing crowds.

The spike in the Omicron edition pushed back the Milan Fashion Week menswear preview for Fall-Winter 2022-23, with significantly fewer events than initially planned. Access to them was severely limited by pandemic restrictions as Italy’s virus infections reach record highs almost daily.

Global powerhouses like Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana and Prada will still host live shows, while Milan mainstay Giorgio Armani canceled outright and other brands canceled runway shows for digital. More than 40 planned live events have been reduced to one-quarter, with some 15 live runway shows going ahead with physical productions.

This is a far cry from last year’s Delta boom, when the Milan runway was closed entirely.

“The positive thing is that many important brands have decided to hold runway shows, and that’s a good sign,” said Carlo Capassa, president of the Italian National Fashion Chamber. “Fashion is the second most important industry in Italy. It is important to remember that we must live with this virus, and we must find a way to protect people’s health while continuing to work, so that this industry can continue to function.” to be kept.”

As the pandemic continues to shadow Europe, Paris has also confirmed a slimmed-down selection of runway shows for January 18-23, followed by Haute Couture, while London has canceled its January calendar, which has been postponed until February. In will be added with preview of women.

In Milan, the fashion crowd found themselves in the auditorium in front of maxi-screens for Zegna previews.

Instead of a live runway show as many expected, creative director Alessandro Sartori showed a 15-minute video of a model dressed in mainstay off-white, black and gray against a snowy road at the Zegna family’s OAC Natural Reserve in neighboring Piedmont. He then gave a technical presentation of the new look with the live model.

“It’s 10% live and 90% virtual,” Sartori told the guests. “If we didn’t have these problems it would have been the other way around,” he said, referring to the latest virus boom arising in a seemingly perfect symphony with the fashion calendar.

Zegna is rebranding, removing founder Ermenegildo Zegna’s maiden name from its official name and merging its three lines, along with its recent public listing on the New York Stock Exchange, to fuel future growth. The new logo – the emerging road with yellow lane markings – denotes the main road through the family reserve, but also the road ahead.

“I am sure that regardless of the bloody covid, it will work,” said brand CEO Gildo Zegna defensively.

Sartori has reimagined the suit for younger clients, with a softly tailored outer jacket, layered with a long tunic coat and trousers, all in matching fabrics of varying weights. A cashmere fake turtleneck unites them. In Sartori’s vision, shoppers of the luxury menswear line will build their wardrobes season by season, adding new pieces along the main color palette in off-white, black and flannel gray, offsetting this season with aubergine and a burnt umber shade Which he called Vichuna, for a camel raised for its precious wool.

In contrast, the DSquared2 collection hinted at a more professional, devil-may-care way down the road. Layered looks featuring cropped puffers, pleated plaid skirt tails and sequined shorts suggested hippies still looking for the Grateful Dead traveling show but with the aid of removable crampons might pass the time on rock climbing or trekking through snow. Gladly, the water bottle was shaken in the front pocket.

No outside brand partnerships were needed to show Canadians that Jungle is in their DNA – unlike another matching brand.

Federico Cena launched his brand just before the pandemic hit, so it’s probably fitting that he made his runway debut as the virus continues to take hold. Long silhouettes feature free-falling cable-knit or ribbed knitwear that layer easily over wide-leg pants. The runway debut collection featured the leaf motif, which was taken from wood prints from the coastal regions of the Emilia-Romagna region.

“I never thought about giving up,” Cena said backstage. “Especially when the Fashion Chamber is giving me this moment of visibility during Milan Fashion Week. It’s just huge. I never thought of not doing the show, especially with the right precautions.”

The Italian fashion scene has been hit by a pandemic since Italy reported the first locally transmitted case of the virus in the West in the middle of Fashion Week in February 2020. Armani first closed its showroom to the live audience, streaming. Fall-Winter 2020-21 Collection from an empty theatre.

The digital trend continued with a few live runway exceptions until women’s wear previews for spring–summer 2022 last September, when vaccination rates began to return to live shows as a rule, albeit in limited numbers. And with social distancing. It was enough to offer promises that fashionistas at close to pre-pandemic numbers can once again pack runway seating, where they can understand first-hand whether the shimmering fabric is silk or satin.

For this edition, travel restrictions and concerns meant that many editors and buyers who had intended to travel to Milan this month, specifically those from the United States, were cancelled, Capasa said. In addition, significant regions of Asia and Eastern Europe – important fashion markets – are administering vaccinations not approved by European health authorities, limiting travel to Italy.

Under current health guidelines, fashion houses must allow four square meters (just over 40 square meters) for each guest – a space that previously could seat up to eight. In many cases, this means something like a tenth of a pre-pandemic audience, necessitating the tough call, even if fewer people are traveling. There is a need for more protective FFP2 masks.

In terms of fashion, this pandemic is now in its eighth season. Capasa noted with satisfaction that the outbreak has never been detected at Fashion Week.

“We must learn to live with this virus, and maintain a high security over behavior,” Capasa said. “If we’ve learned anything, it’s that we need to think very quickly and adapt to the situation.”


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