Laurel is chef Mike Beltran’s take on a high-profile French brasserie
View photos of the food served at French Brasserie Laurel to find out which restaurant makes the first Miami-born chef to earn a Michelin star. The beef Wellington is wrapped in pastry. The foie gras sits neatly in the au jus dish in a blackberry reduction. Classic escargot, frog legs, and crepe Suzette accompany the traditional and sparkling wine list of full-bodied Bordeaux wines and Champagne.
You don’t even need to bark. Ariete’s chef, Mike Beltrán, is going head-to-head with The Surf Club, the godfather of American cuisine, Thomas Keller’s other Michelin-starred restaurant. Brasserie Laurel, Beltrán’s version of a high-profile French brasserie, is now open in the new $4 billion Miami WorldCenter complex downtown, where the surf club par excellence is located. “I can’t say they’re wrong,” Beltran said. “Someone asked me what restaurant I would compare it to and I immediately said Surf Club. It’s a good benchmark to compare yourself to.”
Beltrán received one of Florida’s first Michelin stars for Ariete’s Coconut Grove restaurant, where he experiments with the idea of what Cuban cuisine might have been if it had been allowed to develop without the isolation of the Revolution. . The cuisine is experimental, using myriad techniques and crossing the culinary color wheel with different recipes. It represents what might be called the new kitchen of Miami.
Choli Laurel would be different. It will focus on recreating classic recipes with the highest quality ingredients and precise culinary techniques as the star of each dish:
“Not much on the plate, just great product, great execution,” Beltran said.
The restaurant will have a rotating spit for specialty meats ranging from guinea to rabbit. This is a laborious and potentially cumbersome addition. But, like the duck press and mushroom flan at Ariete, Beltrán admits he likes to take risks. “I certainly don’t like easy things,” he said. “It’s something that fits in very well with the restaurant.” They say that Brasserie Laurel will not be the kind of restaurant that can be easily plucked from another city. You’ll use local ingredients, such as sweet, ripe blackberries, for the foie gras reduction and seasonal herbs, vegetables and citrus.
Beltrán’s designated chef at the restaurant, Ashley Moncada, was hired for this restaurant two years ago and trained at Ariete during the pandemic. This restaurant is his first completed project.
“He has affected everything he has touched,” Beltran said. “His influence is felt throughout the restaurant.” Dark woods, blue leather and gold accents will complement the discerning restaurant, he added. But there’s an unexpected Miami element: a small window serving WorldCenter locals with croquettes, cupcakes and Cuban coffee, named Chugs Express after its more laid-back Coconut Grove restaurant, also featured by the Michelin Guide was. Soon after, he would open a cigar bar with a full selection of spirits and appetizers, from charcuterie and cheese boards to mussel and Gruyère burgers. Together, the restaurants respond to Beltrán’s diverse interests and dedication to Miami cuisine. ,
Certainly we have set the bar very high.
- bodice laurel
- Address: 698 NE 1st Ave., Suite G-170, Ground Floor of Miami WorldCenter.
- Hours: Sunday through Thursday 5-10 p.m.; Come and visit on Saturdays from 5-11pm
With information from El Nuevo Herald