Saturday, December 10, 2022

Marc Jacobs finds his Nietzsche in the NY Public Library

NEW YORK ( Associated Press) — It’s not every designer who can design a fashion show around a quote from Nietzsche. But Marc Jacobs has always had a great flair for drama.

The German philosopher once said, “We have art so as not to die from the truth,” a line Jacobs highlighted in her program notes for Monday evening’s runway show in the grand entrance hall of the New York Public Library on Manhattan’s Fifth. chose to do. Avenue.

If there was any doubt that Jacobs was referring to turbulent developments in the outside world, he also spoke of making and sharing his creative choices, “in contrast to the ongoing cruelty and ugliness of the world beyond our untouched but impenetrable walls. “

Jacobs’ show in the marble lobby of the famous library came exactly a year after his previous show in the same location. That show, also held in the summer and not during Fashion Week, was the first in-person runway show since the pandemic shut things down for a few seasons, and was meant to send a loud message that New York City is back. had arrived. Then it would have been hard to imagine that a year later the pandemic would never end.

But New York hums nonetheless, and so does Jacobs’ runway. Like last year, there was a futuristic feel to her designs, with exterior proportions, shiny materials, whimsical shapes and lots of color.

Models in white platform shoes look like a dazzling dress in bright sporty cobalt blue with a matching handkerchief tied around the neck. This and other ensembles came with long, elbow-length gloves. Interestingly, there were some high-end surgical scrubs, like lavender ensembles with drawstring pants and those long gloves, that were clearly ready for the operating room.

Sweaters in bright blues or pinks were spacious and heavy, with huge sleeves covered around the waist or over the shoulders, wide enough to hide another human. Billing garments soon gave way to more skin-baring ensembles, such as a long pink skirt with a short, sequined bikini top.

A striking look was a metal tunic resembling chainmail, paired with elbow-length black gloves and a handkerchief in the same material. Then came the fancy stuff: a green or purple long skirt with shiny oversized puff sleeves, and a dramatic, billowing gown in neon green.

Jacobs was clearly having fun with both the material and the shape, and in fact he listed them in his show notes. Next to the column titled “Humans” (who will be the models, a list that includes the Hadid sisters, Bella and Gigi) they reveal their materials — canvas, denim, foil, glass, leather, paint, paper, plaster (!). did. , plastic, rubber and vinyl. The figures included bikinis, blazers, cardigans, cargo pants — and scrubs, among other things.

A broader theme was expressed in the show’s title: “choice,” and even more so, creativity. “My feeling is inexhaustible,” wrote the designer. “Creativity is essential to living.”

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