Mid-length hems, waists, floral prints, gloves and marked heels: the Dior woman draws her strength from the ultra-feminine wardrobe inspired by the 1950s and imbued with the spirit of punk in the new collection presented today at Paris Fashion Week.
“These years are very important for the House, created in 1947. I also wanted to make a collection inspired by Paris, because we have a better idea of what happened in the United States of America in the 1950s,” the Italian designer of women AFP., Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri.
At this time, Christian Dior designed the most famous New Look woman silhouette after the war, which means rounded shoulders and full skirts that fit above the knees.
But what is of particular interest to Maria Grazia Chiuri are the women who wore these clothes, in the context of the “intellectual fervor” of the time, the pre-existing vow to vote and the publication of “The Second Sex” by Simone de Beauvoir.
– Independents and Punk –
After the haute collection that celebrated Joséphine Baker in January, this ready-to-wear collection is inspired by three well-known clients: the sister of the designer Catherine Dior, a resister, florist, businesswoman and who refused to marry, the existentialist muse Juliette Gréco and the popular singer Edith Piaf, “hard to beat” like a few others.
“In addition to being very elegant, it has a bit of a punk attitude,” emphasizes Maria Grazia Chiuri.
In the show, models accompanied by the voice of Edith Piaf with “No, je ne regrette rien” emerged on a winding stage of a giant flower, conceived by the Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelo. Baptized “Miss Dior Valkyrie”, it evokes the spirit of Catherine Dior, “a strong and sensitive woman”, explains Vasconcelos.
“In addition to the idea that we have of Miss Dior as romantic and fragile, in reality she is a very strong and independent woman who has done the most important things in her life,” emphasizes Chiuri.
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These three muses with very different backgrounds “give a different account of Paris in the 1950s”.
– Innovative carving –
For winter-autumn 2023, this rebellious and counter-current woman will express herself through the choice of innovative materials such as a less rigid line and disturbing floral motifs in the texture that interpret the disturbances of the body.
Black dresses and skirts in haute “duchess” fabric, with stainless threads that create a ruffled and wrinkled look.
“This print completely removes the idea of a rigid New Look and creates something that adapts to each body and allows a much softer and more personal reinterpretation of the 1950s,” says Maria Grazia Chiuri.
– Feminist heels? –
A wedge-shaped heel is perfect for pointed platform shoes. The socks are worn off, showing a bit of bare leg.
The evolution of the Italian designer, who previously saw the heel as anti-feminist, but gradually began to introduce it into his collections.
Now “it is much more free and it is no longer necessary to wear heels” to prevail in the world of work, considers the designer and emphasizes that the collection also includes flat shoes. “I like to create collections for all occasions,” he says.